Monday, July 18, 2011

Liang Kee Restaurant

The last time I dined in Liang Kee was close to a decade ago. From what I remember, the food was so-so, nothing special, except the location, Clarke Quay. This time, Liang Kee has moved to a HDB, however, the food most certainly made up for the less glamourous location.

Teochew stewed duck.
The stewed duck did not work the magic with me this time around. Although there was nothing to complain about with the texture, it had a strong taste of turmeric, which was a let down for me. The duck meat was stewed until tender but still offering some bite; whereas the skin was silky smooth, lending some softness and moisture to the meat when chewed.

Trigger fish in black bean sauce.
I do not remember ever having trigger fish before that dinner, but it was pretty much love at first bite. Trigger fish has tougher meat than most fish but once bitten breaks apart, releasing the moisture in the meat, if the fish is fresh. This dish had fresh trigger fish drenched in a rather intense sauce, which was well balanced with saltiness from the black beans, soy sauce and the sweetness from the ginger. However, the sauce is nowhere near that of  Hock Seng Hin's standard.

Oh lua (oyster omelette).
This dish teaches one to not judge a book by its cover. What looks like a plain omelette when flipped over reveals a treasure trove of fresh, decently sized oysters in a thick, starchy sauce. The sauce was just perfectly seasoned to draw out the natural flavours of the oyster without the seasoning itself being too ostentatious in taste. When it comes to texture, this dish also shined with the egg being equally thick throughout and with space in between layers of the omelette, giving a rather spongy feel. The oysters were crunchy and juicy. One of the best oyster omelettes I have ever tasted.

Fried vegetables.
I feel ashamed for not knowing what this vegetable is. Also, I cannot really review this because I have nothing in comparison. However, it probably just is another vegetable dish which is nowhere near spectacular.

Sambal crayfish.
Actually, they should just call this chilli crayfish, as the sauce is highly similar to that of chilli crab, which Singapore is famous for. Nonetheless, a wrong name does not make the dish wrong, in fact, it was pretty darn good. The crayfish was very succulent and crunchy due to its freshness. The sambal was also great, exactly what one would expect from a chilli crab sauce. Beyond that, there is not much to compliment. Just how much better can chilli crab sauce get? I am pretty sure there are better.

Deep fried tofu with minced pork.
By far the best version of this dish I have ever tasted. Yes, I have tasted this dish in every Chinese restaurant that I have dined at in Malaysia and still Liang Kee's version can take the top spot. The secret of this dish is in the sauce. What the secret is, I probably will never know. The sauce is so complex, with a faint hint of salted fish and black beans, subtle but sufficient to contribute to the rich amalgam of savoury flavours. Despite the sauce being extremely rich, the taste of egg in the tofu was still evident. The minced pork gave the dish an extra type of texture, bringing succulent together with silky smooth and a thick sauce into a mind blowing combination. Until now I can still vividly recall the tastes and textures of the dish.

Steamed bun.
This was ordered to go with the sambal from the sambal crayfish, but to call it a sideshow would be insulting. The texture of the bun is nothing short of amazing. It was so soft, light and malleable, a bit spongy even, nothing like the compressed mound of dough that most restaurants. It goes perfectly with the sambal.

Oh ni (Yam paste).
This was first time I had ever tasted this wondrous dessert. It was sensibly sweet due to the natural sweetness from the yam and pumpkin, though a pinch of sugar was probably added to it to boost the sweetness. The muddy texture of the yam and the fibrous and sticky pumpkin bound together perfectly. I think a bit of starch was also added to thicken the paste. Although sticky desserts are far from my cup of tea, Liang Kee's oh ni managed to hit the sweet, sweet spot and I am craving for it every now and then. Absolutely fantastic.

Liang Kee's food totally shatters the misconception that Singapore has bad Chinese food. Having been around for decades, the people at Liang Kee have honed their mastery of Teochew cuisine to a level that is uncannily high. Definitely a contender for the best restaurant in Singapore that I have ever dined at.

Singapore 169653.

60787026


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